A fabulous evening full of surprises and big flavours at Mount Haven, Marazion.
With a thriving foodie scene here in Cornwall, and ever more eateries popping up across the county, it’s always the same challenge: try somewhere new that everyone’s raving about; or stick with what you know, dining at that trusty restaurant that never misses a beat with great food, drink and service? Well, on this occasion, I found a restaurant that ticked both boxes. Somewhere I knew fondly from past experience, but also that more recently has been abuzz with hype via social media and friends who had paid a visit. It had me wondering what all the fuss was about…
Mount Haven Hotel and Restaurant is the establishment in question and more so its new Head Chef, Ross Sloan. Perched above the shore in Marazion, the view is unsurpassed, looking out upon the iconic St Michael’s Mount, whether dining inside or on the terrace. OK, so we’re always raving about views here at Cornwall Living but, honestly, you’d be hard pushed to find a better one! The hotel and restaurant ooze a calm ‘mind, body and soul’ feel with tasteful, unique décor and soothing incense aromas through the air.
I wasted no time in booking my partner, two close friends and myself in for a taster evening. Images of the food had started to appear online from Ross’ new menu, sending my taste buds into a frenzy as immediately I was struck with the beauty of each plate.
Hake fillet, seaweed butter, samphire, charred purple sprouting and new potatoes, lamb shoulder, sweetbreads, garlic mustard, pea and olive, green and white asparagus, slow-cooked duck yolk, nasturtium cream, olive caramel and foraged sea vegetables, goats’ curd, nettle broth, peas, broad beans and wild rice granola, citrus baked cheese, summer fruits, pistachios… the list goes on and I couldn’t wait to be sat at the table with great company sampling this sensational looking food!
Needless to say, it didn’t disappoint. Ross’s take on fresh seasonal produce used at the right time of year is incredibly special and second to none. I can safely say I have never eaten food like it. We were all blown away by each plate’s careful presentation and vivid bursts of colour that stirred the senses.
We were treated to ten taster dishes, each as good as the last, and thoughtfully explained by the lovely and interested waiting staff. I would happily recount every last detail of each course whilst reminiscing over the evening, but I don’t want to spoil the surprise. However, firm favourites amongst the table were the marinated scallops and cuttlefish with fennel, white carrots, crème fraîche and dulse powder… something none of us had tried before which made for a refreshing seafood dish, packed with flavour. The oxtail and oyster croustillant also proved popular. A crispy shredded potato roll encasing tender, juicy oxtail and oyster served with fiery homemade horseradish and peppery watercress, it was truly sensational and again like nothing we had ever tried before.
Whilst waiting for desserts we gazed upon the view, sipping our fabulous 2015 William Chase Rosé, understanding exactly why Mount Haven has caused such a stir. The table was split with our favourite desserts but eventually we all agreed the white chocolate mousse, rosehip jelly, rose petal sherbet, raspberries was, well, wow! Absolutely dreamy and perfectly balanced.
All that’s left to say is: if you haven’t yet, then book a table while you still can. For interesting, incredibly tasty food, cooked and presented by a passionate team and created by a chef in a league of his own… it’s got to be Mount Haven.
Turnpike Road, Marazion TR17 0DQ