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Cornwall LivingIssue #140

A guide to fine dining in Cornwall

Known for its abundance of local, seasonal food, we explore five of the best restaurants in Cornwall in which to enjoy it all.

It’s no secret that our beautiful Duchy draws visitors from far and wide for the rich local history and startlingly beautiful scenery that frames our corner of the country, but in recent years a new focus has come to the fore to pique our interest. While famed for traditional Cornish pasties and cream teas, still very much enjoyed by locals and visitors alike, Cornwall’s abundance of fresh, good quality ingredients, combined with an ever-growing collection of talented chefs and a shared passion for seasonal food, has meant a glinting reputation for fine dining at its very best has settled over the county, beckoning foodies from far and wide. Here are five our our favourite fine-dining restaurants in Cornwall.

The Ugly Butterfly, Carbis Bay

One such establishment, positioned with a truly spectacular view across the striking Carbis Bay and beyond, is Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterfly. Built on an ethos of sustainability and zero waste, the idea is that as much as there is no such thing as an ugly butterfly, with skilled enough people and the right state of mind, there need be no such thing as food waste! Ugly Butterfly works closely with growers, farmers and fishermen across Cornwall – seafood from Matthew Stevens, grass-fed beef from Homage to the Bovine, organic vegetables, herbs and fresh flowers from Trenow Fields and dairy from Trink – all chosen for beliefs and practices that align with Adam’s own. And as for the food; think fresh oysters, scallops, Cornish turbot, sweet mussels, local meat cooked to bring out the richest flavours and paired with vegetables from local farmers and carefully selected wines, beautifully presented and designed to delight, with a view to indulge in as you sit back and enjoy. As restaurants in Cornwall go, this is up there with our top ‘must visits’!

Outlaw’s New Road, Port Isaac

Another big name in the world of Cornish fine dining is Nathan Outlaw and his New Road restaurant perched at the top of Port Isaac, with coastal views over the bay to widen the eyes as you sit with a wine glass in hand, has built a reputation all its own. Relishing in the variety and splendour of seafood that defines the Cornish coast, it is here that Nathan invites you on a tasting experience, as he explains: “Over the past two decades I have dedicated my craft to the pursuit of seafood excellence, uncovering original techniques and recipes whilst harnessing the nuances of classical seafood cookery. The dishes prepared at Outlaw’s New Road reflect the location and time of the ingredients gathered, even to the day; we consider the subtle changes in produce and raw components as each season evolves. Our aim is to elevate seafood.” With the option of an a la carte lunch, celebrating Nathan’s most iconic dishes from the last 20 years, or his signature seafood tasting menu for dinner, which elevates the seafood dining experience to whole new heights, Outlaw’s New Road is nothing short of a haven for any sea-foodie.

The Mulberry, Falmouth

Relatively new to the scene, but nevertheless packing a punch with a Muddy Stilettos Best Restaurant Award for 2022 tucked under its belt only a few months after opening, The Mulberry in Falmouth has quickly found a firm foothold, fusing fine dining with a relaxed and friendly atmosphere to put you at ease as you sample the very best of local flavours. With chefs Harry Cartwright and Jay Brady at the helm, each bringing their own unique skills and perspectives to the plate, local, seasonal and sustainable produce is at the core of everything they do, using local suppliers wherever they can, and even foraging a lot of their ingredients themselves. Much like Ugly Butterfly, The Mulberry aims to produce as little food waste as possible, with a determination to use every part of an animal, fruit or vegetable, ordering in whole cuts of meat from butchers like Philip Warrens. While the premium cuts are used in the pork tenderloin dish, offcuts will help create the delicious quail scotch eggs currently on the menu; anything left from the lamb saddle can be made into lamb bacon or salt lamb; and remnants of fruits and vegetables can be used in gels, sorbets and stocks. This level of attention to detail shows in the presentation and flavour of every dish on the menu, and paired with an extensive wine list and a collection of locally sourced spirits and fresh, seasonal cocktails, a visit to The Mulberry is sure to satisfy.

RenMor, Newquay

Finding home in The Headland Hotel, perched fifty feet up on Newquay’s Towan Headland with a view of Fistral Bay’s pounding surf and tantalising sunsets through the twelve-foot windows that stretch the length of the restaurant, is Restaurant RenMor. Following a multi-million-pound refurbishment, impressive is an understatement when it comes to first impressions alone. Serving breakfast, afternoon tea and supper, dishes here are unfussy and luxurious, with ever-changing specials inspired by the pick of the produce delivered to the kitchen every morning. Having maintained a close relationship with the best sustainable food suppliers in Cornwall, you can expect to sample the delights of Mora Farm’s, Trenow Fields’ and Padstow Kitchen Garden’s exceptional veg; Phillip Warren’s dry-aged meat perfection; Cape and Cove Cornwall’s rare breed lamb and pork; the freshest seafood possible from Flying Fish, and, of course, Roddas’ Cornish clotted cream. “We’re blessed here by the natural bounty on our doorstep,” explains Fred Goodrich, Head Chef at RenMor. “We have dayboats landing beautiful seafood every morning from Newquay to Newlyn, regenerative farms pushing the standards for provenance with their meat and poultry, and artisanal producers supplying wonderful seasonal veg. Restaurant RenMor celebrates all this.”

Brasserie on the Bay, Falmouth

For a relaxed AA Rosette Cornish dining experience overlooking sub-tropical gardens and the dazzling sea beyond the sands of Gyllyngvase beach, St Michaels Resort’s Brasserie on the Bay is another fine dining experience to join the burgeoning Falmouth foodie scene. Serving dishes big in local flavour and low in food miles, Executive Head Chef Darren Millgate is taking diners on a laid-back tour of Cornish fields, farms and waters, as he explains: “Whatever time of year you visit us, our local food heroes will be firmly in the spotlight. Almost everything on your plate comes with a local story.” It is this level of provenance, combined with Darren’s expertise when it comes to flavour, that make his menus stand out. Rotating the menu daily keeps things fresh at Brasserie on the Bay, offering up the opportunity for you to try something new each time you visit; from Westcountry sirloin steak and pan-fried Newlyn hake fillet, to pea and bean gnocchi in a rich roasted tomato sauce or the saffron and samphire risotto, there’s a dish to delight all tastes.

With a fervently flourishing boiling pot of fine dining restaurants left, right and centre, Cornwall is certainly headed to the top of the list when it comes to the ultimate epicurean bucket list, and once here you may be a while with all the choice around you! Wherever you find yourself pulling up a seat, be it Falmouth, Carbis Bay, Newquay, or the many other fine-dining foodie capitals here in the south west, you’re sure to find a true taste of Cornwall.