A Cornish Christmas

Words by Jude Kereama

Find magic by the sea in Porthleven.

Porthleven is a harbour village bursting with festive spirit, community warmth and food that celebrates the season in every bite.

There’s something about Christmas in Cornwall that gets right under your skin. Maybe it’s the salty tang in the air, or the way the harbour lights reflect off the water, turning Porthleven into a little jewel on the south coast. Whatever it is, this place knows how to do winter properly with festive spirit and a whole lot of good food.

As December settles in, the storms roll in off the Atlantic, the gulls ride the gusts and the light turns golden and low. The visitors have gone, but the locals remain, walking their dogs along Loe Bar, chatting over coffee and preparing for the season’s celebrations.

When the Christmas lights are switched on, the whole harbour seems to hold its breath. The roads are strung with fairy lights, the brass band strikes up a carol and the scent of mulled wine drifts through the air. Children’s laughter and excitement mingle with the sound of the waves and the arrival of Santa and for a moment, everything feels
perfectly Cornish.

For me, Christmas is all about bringing people together around food; real food, cooked with love and a sense of place. At Kota and Kota Kai, we spend weeks planning how to weave that festive spirit into our dishes. The kitchens hum with energy, the air filled with the scent of roasting meats and spices.

I like to take the flavours of Christmas and give them a Cornish and Asian twist – a little surprise, a little comfort. You might find slow-braised beef cheek cooked with soy, ginger, and star anise, served alongside silky Cornish mash. Or a fillet of line-caught fish, pan-roasted and glazed with lobster butter, shellfish, pickled sea vegetables, along with seasonal brassicas. It’s about balance, where richness combines with freshness and depth with brightness.

Our ingredients tell the story of where we are. Scallops from pots in Falmouth Bay; crab from Newlyn; game from local shoots and moors; vegetables from nearby farms and even sea herbs foraged along the coast when the weather allows. Cornwall keeps giving, even in the cold months. The sea is still teeming with life, the fields still producing beautiful, hardy produce.

And dessert? That’s where the fun really begins. A Christmas pudding ice cream sundae infused with apple and brandy miso caramel – the perfect bridge between my Asian heritage and the Cornish love of indulgence. Sweet, salty, tangy and
utterly festive.

This Christmas, we are open at Kota Kai and we have the full festive menu.  We are really looking forward to welcoming everyone for a fabulous day, and even my own family will be coming for Christmas dinner.  I can’t wait to enjoy the day with family, staff, and friends – it will be a big celebration for us all.

What makes Christmas in Porthleven so special isn’t just the food or the views – it’s the people. The fishermen who still head out at dawn, the artists painting through the rain, the café owners who keep their doors open and their coffee hot. There’s a sense of togetherness that feels even stronger at this time of year. You see it in the lantern parades, the charity raffles, the school concerts and the impromptu sing-alongs in the pub. Everyone plays their part in keeping the harbour alive with warmth and light.

On Christmas Day, a few brave souls take the plunge into the harbour for the traditional swim – a mad but joyful way to welcome the morning. Then it’s home for a proper roast, a glass of wine, and the comforting crackle of a fire.

By evening, when the tide is high and the air smells faintly of woodsmoke, Porthleven falls quiet again. The lights shimmer across the water, the gulls roost on the pier and the sound of the sea becomes the night’s carol. It’s peace, Cornish-style – wild and calm, all at once.

Christmas in Cornwall reminds me of what’s truly important. Gratitude for the land and sea that sustain us. Gratitude for the people who make this village such a joy to live and work in. And gratitude for the chance to slow down, share a meal and reflect on the year gone by.

Porthleven may be small, but its heart beats big and at Christmas, that heart shines brighter than ever. Whether you’re a local or just passing through, the warmth here is real. So if you find yourself in Cornwall this winter, take a detour down to our harbour. Wrap up warm, grab a glass of mulled cider and let the sea air remind you what Christmas in Porthleven is really about; it’s lived, shared and savoured, one plate, one wave and one smile at a time.

KOTA & Kota Kai
Harbour Head, Porthleven TR13 9JY
01326 562407 / 01326 727707
KotaKaiBarKitchen
KotaRestaurant
www.kotarestaurant.co.uk
www.kotakai.co.uk