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Cornwall LivingIssue #153

A Cornish Culinary Road Trip

Buckle up and engage those gears because we’re about to embark on a delectable journey that will take us across Cornwall. 

Forget Google Maps; our navigation tools are our taste buds, guiding us from one mouth-watering halt to another, from Penzance to St Breward. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or just looking to escape the usual supermarket suppers, join us as we uncover some of the most tantalising spots in Cornwall, one bite at a time. 

Our journey begins in Penzance at the Barbican Bistro (barbicanbistro.com), where small plates, with a focus on fresh fish, are certainly worth fuelling up with before we begin your epicurean odyssey. This quirky little spot, situated on Barbican Lane, serves up such tasty treats as pickled anchovies marinated in chilli and lemon along with John Dory with asparagus and beurre blanc. Pair these offerings with a glass of their wine, beer or cider and we’re starting our road trip in the right frame of mind that even the weather can’t dampen. Just remember to nominate a driver before you head off along the A30 as the beverages en route will be hard to resist.

Next, we cruise into Falmouth, where Nourish at St Michaels Resort (stmichaelsresort.com/dine/nourish) offers a dining experience that’s all about balance – mind, body and palate. Picture Cornish tapas for starters, brioche and shawarma. The main courses range from sustainably caught fish to organic vegetables that speak volumes of their garden origins. A bustling cafe atmosphere by day transitions seamlessly into a cool, contemporary, social and relaxed bar restaurant by night – it’s a pity we have to head off before it kicks off.

Top down and still basking in the coastal air, our next stop is Swanpool Beach’s very own gem, Hooked on the Rocks (hookedontherocksfalmouth.com). Specialising in seafood such as Falmouth Bay scallops with roe butter and seaweed pangrattato, and wild prawns with garlic butter, ‘nduja, lime and fresh herbs, this location will have you ‘hooked’ with its foodie offerings. What’s more the view of the shore isn’t just a backdrop – it’s part of the experience. Each bite pairs perfectly with the calming sound of waves breaking against the rocks below.

Retracing our tyre tracks we drive to Penryn, and having roared past the golden arches without a second glance we find ourselves at Situ Café (situcafe.co.uk), a place where comfort meets cuisine in contemporary coalescence. This café thrives on the concept of heritage food that is derived from head-chef Sham’s Ugandan Indian background & culture – a coming together of traditional Gujarati dishes with Ugandan influences. The ambiance is cosy urban chic warmed to smooth perfection, enticing patrons to linger a little longer over a house or feature espresso – it’s just such a shame that we have to hit the road again.

However, waving goodbye to the coast and rolling onwards to Redruth, we make a pitstop at the ever-charming Penventon Hotel (penventon.co.uk). Here, dining is an affair fit for royals, albeit ones with a penchant for cutting loose now and then. The menu combines the sumptuousness of classic European dishes with local Cornish twists. Sit down to 12-hour braised pork porchetta or tagliatelle pasta incorporating the chef’s flavour of the day. And the wine list? Sophisticated enough to require a manual – thankfully, the sommeliers are on hand to translate.

A slight detour to Treleigh brings us to the Inn For All Seasons (innforallseasons.co.uk/restaurant), a pub that boasts a spacious restaurant that can cater for family and friends or for couples who wish to experience quiet dining in a booth for two. The name doesn’t lie; no matter when you visit, there’s always something delicious in season. Their famous carvery makes autumnal dining a real pleasure, with a summer menu that turns eating into a gourmet experience. ‘local’ is the key here – be it the ale or the impressive Sunday roast, it’s all crafted from local Cornish produce.

Pedal to the metal we forge a path to Cornwall’s only city, Truro. Pulling up outside The Rising Sun (therisingsuntruro.co.uk) we are ready to be greeted by an eclectic mix of old and new. This pub does not shy away from experimenting – expect dishes like west country duck, orange-glazed carrots, asparagus, parmentier potatoes and pomegranate jus, raising your regular pub grub into something worthy of a fanfare. In summer its garden offers a relaxed setting that’s perfect for an extended lunch (or several). Just when you think you’ve seen it all, their selection of craft gins is the perfect beverage to sip the afternoon away engaged in convivial conversation.

Wishing we were in a piece of Italian automobile exotica we capture a taste of Latinate romance in Wadebridge at Bellinis (bellinis.co.uk). As if stepping into a Roman trattoria, you’re greeted with intoxicating aromas of garlic, olive oil and simmering tomato sauces. The pasta dishes are works of art, as you’d expect, and the pizzas… well, why not try for yourself. Pair your meal with some classic Italian hospitality, and you’ll feel like you’re driving along the Amalfi coast with the top down!

At Rock, we clamber out of our vehicle, stretch our legs and ascend to the culinary splendour that is the Upper Deck (upperdeckrock.co.uk). This nautical-themed restaurant takes the sea-to-fork concept seriously, with their starters showcasing a broad representation that includes pan seared scallops, Porthilly mussels and Mediterranean style prawns. The view of the estuary adds an extra piquancy to the already perfect dishes, making this a dining experience that stays fresh in your memory long after the last morsel has vanished.

Venturing inland, St Tudy is home to the St Tudy Inn (sttudyinn.com) – what else? It’s a blended mix of the rustic and refined where everything comes together in a cosy refuge of bonhomie. This charming old country pub, is a welcoming sanctuary for foodies craving sophisticated dishes with a home-cooked touch. Their Sunday roasts are legendary, served with all the trimmings and a tincture of extra love. And if you’re lucky enough to visit on a Tuesday around 1pm level up your week with their Two for Tuesday deal when you can choose any two lunch main courses for £20.

Our penultimate gastronomic pause is at St Breward’s Old Inn and Restaurant (theoldinnandrestaurant.co.uk), seated high up on Bodmin Moor. The snug bars, huge roaring log fires and sloping beamed ceilings, make this one of the country’s, let alone Cornwall’s, quintessential English pubs. The menu champions hearty, comforting dishes – from classic ploughman’s to signature steaks, with every item a gastronomic delight. Paired with a pint of local ale or a glass of smooth cider, it’s the perfect place to take stock before quickly descending off the moor to our last stop.

The gastronomic expedition hits the now smoking brakes at the Port William (theportwilliam.co.uk.co.uk), a hostelry that is managed by St Austell Brewery. Firmly seated on the side of a steep valley overlooking Trebarwith Strand, and a stone’s throw from the golden sandy surf beach below, it’s the perfect cosy venue to enjoy a Sunday roast whilst being thrilled by the site of a brewing storm outside. Sitting snugly, with our fellow road trippers we relax against the thoughtfully provided blankets and sheepskins whislt warming ourselves in front of the roaring log fire. A pint of Tribute in hand we casually consider the menu whilst one of our party heads off to book a couple of rooms for the night.

 

And there you have it, gastronauts – 12 tantalising stops on our culinary road trip through Cornwall. Each destination brings its unique flavour, encapsulating the rich and diverse food culture of this stunning region. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, one thing is certain: Cornwall isn’t just a feast for the eyes; it’s a gourmet paradise waiting to be savoured.

 

Learn the culinary art 

For those who enjoy prepping as well as consuming:

Philleigh Way, where you can roll up your sleeves and immerse yourself in hands-on culinary adventures, learning the secrets behind creating delicious dishes with flair.

Rick Steins Cookery School in Padstow is a culinary playground where you can master seafood dishes under the guidance of expert chefs.

St Ives Cookery School offers dynamic classes where you can hone your culinary skills while enjoying breath-taking ocean vistas.