A feast for the senses

Despite working in very different mediums, chef Jude Kereama and Cornwall-based artist, Zee van Gils, find commonality in their approach to creativity.

Regular readers of Cornwall Living will by now be familiar with Jude Kereama, owner and Head Chef at Kota and Kota Kai. These two restaurants on Porthleven’s harbour head have garnered a significant following over the years of both locals who love Jude’s approach to Cornish produce, and visitors who come to Cornwall to experience its incredible culinary scene. But success as a restaurateur is about more than just the food, although it is obviously an important factor! It is as much about presentation, and I think we have all by now heard the phrase ‘we eat with our eyes’. Jude’s approach to hospitality is very much geared towards appealing to our need for beauty in our surroundings, particularly here in Cornwall.

The dishes that he and his team deliver to guests’ tables are meticulously put together, with everything as beautiful to behold as it is delicious to eat. But it’s not just his food that is dressed to impress. So, too, are the walls of each restaurant, and only last year did we catch up with resident artist at Kota, Maxine Greer, about her creative collaboration with Jude. Her colour-rich likenesses of Cornish marine creatures reflect the changing seasonality of the ingredients Jude and his team use, and the combination of art and food provides diners with a much more immersive experience as soon as they cross the restaurant’s threshold.

With this in mind, we were excited to hear from Jude that he has been working on a similar collaboration in his other restaurant, Kota Kai, this time with Zee van Gils. Keen to learn more, we ask Zee how the collaboration first came about. “I met Jude a few years ago just before Covid hit, through one of my friends, Tegen. One morning, I took a bunch of original pieces over to the restaurant for him to see, and he loved my art! Jude is such a genuinely kind person and to me, his food looks like edible art, so for him to say he likes my work was a lovely compliment.”

Unfortunately, the Covid-19 pandemic put a temporary end to Jude and Zee’s conversation. But when things began to return to normal, says Zee, “I got in touch to see if he’d be interested in having a selection of my work for display at Kota Kai.”

Fast-forward to now and Zee’s work can be found on proud display in the restaurant, which itself occupies a central position overlooking the beautiful vista of Porthleven’s harbour. “The central setting, with its large windows overlooking the harbour, is nothing less than epic,” says Zee. “It’s such an iconic town with an incredible history and character. Having the fishing boats there, an amazing surf spot around the corner, old pubs and locally owned shops really gives the wholesome ‘Cornish’ feeling. I think my art brings in the often-wild elements that the restaurant is surrounded by, and ties it all together quite nicely.”

Jude agrees. “I love Zee’s work and how it fits in with the restaurant here at Kota Kai. The magnificent views of the Porthleven harbour that we have from every table reflects beautifully with Zee’s art on the walls. All of her work is eye-catching and people are often drawn to them, taking their time to study and admire the pieces.

“Zee and I share the same free spirit and ethos,” he continues. “Particularly in the way her travels, and natural surroundings, influence her colour palette and forms for her artwork. I have to say that we are a great match in Kota Kai, and it’s a real pleasure to have her work on our walls.”

As well as great art, Jude and Zee share a real appreciation for food, the ocean and nature. In fact, as Zee puts it, “I would describe Jude as an artist, too”. She commends his attention to every detail, to the colour, texture, flavour and composition of each dish. “How can it be anything other than art? Preparing beautiful food is a way to express creativity and connect with others. That is what I do too, just with a different medium. I love that Jude’s menus are infused with influences from different parts of the world, too, as this is certainly something I try to achieve in my own work.”

Zee regularly updates the work on display in Kota Kai. Guests will often find that they simply cannot leave without one of them, and so there appears a gap on the wall that Zee is tasked to fill. “Sometimes I don’t have suitable artwork available to fill an empty slot, at which point I create something that complements the current selection.”

Going back to Jude’s approach to presentation, and what he has achieved with both his food and his collaboration with Zee, is an experience that engages more than just our taste buds. From the creative flair that’s evident on every plate, to the views across the harbour and the sea air gently wafting through the windows, to Zee’s whorling depictions of Cornwall’s natural beauty, a meal at Kota Kai is a veritable feast for the senses.

Kota Kai
01326 562407
www.kotarestaurant.co.uk
www.underthezee.com