A love letter to Cornish Sea Salt

Words by Maryn Odell AKA Lagom Chef

Let’s talk about salt.

Yes, salt. I know what you’re thinking: “It’s just salt, how exciting could this possibly be?” Well, buckle up, because I’m about to tell you why Cornish Sea Salt is the one thing the kitchen desperately needs. Here’s the thing about Cornish Sea Salt: it’s made by actual humans who care about salt more than most people care about their hobbies. The Cornish Sea Salt Company (cornishseasalt.co.uk) harvest their salt from the pristine waters off the Cornish coast, using traditional methods that would make your great-grandmother nod approvingly. They filter seawater, gently heat it, and hand-harvest the resulting crystals like they’re mining for tiny, delicious diamonds. I wish I could tell you all the details but I am sworn to secrecy by Phil Tanswell, the MD of Cornish Sea Salt… also, I’m not sure if I can even remember half of what he told me about what is a very intricate process!

The result? Salt that actually tastes beyond salty. There are mineral notes, a slight sweetness and a complexity that makes you realise that table salt is basically the instant coffee of the seasoning world. Sure, it’ll do the job, but why settle for fine when you can
have magnificent?

I was lucky enough to have a tour of the factory, more interestingly named the Salt House, nestled in a small cove on the Lizard peninsula called Pol Gwarra. It is tucked away like a bond villain’s secret lair, seamlessly blending into the coast line. Cornwall is known for its spectacular coast but this protected cove seemed extra special. As we approached the stretch of sea beside the salt house, its clarity was striking — grade-A Atlantic brine feeding the works. The distinctive geology beneath the surface enriches it with minerals, the very qualities that make Cornish Sea Salt transform a dish and give it a flavour that’s wildly, wonderfully different. Phil explained salt as listening to music; table salt is like listening through some old crackly headphones, while Cornish Sea Salt is like
surround sound. 

  Let’s address the elephant in the room: these are flaky crystals, not fine powder. The first time you pinch Cornish Sea Salt between your fingers, you’ll understand. It’s got this gorgeous, delicate crunch that dissolves on your tongue like snowflakes. These flakes don’t just season your food they add texture, they add interest, they add a certain je ne sais quoi that will have your dinner guests asking what you’ve done differently? Answer: you upgraded your salt game, that’s what.

Before Cornish Sea Salt: You make scrambled eggs. They taste like scrambled eggs. Your Tuesday morning is fine. After Cornish Sea Salt: You make scrambled eggs, finish them with a pinch of these magical flakes, and suddenly you’re questioning every breakfast you’ve ever eaten. The eggs taste richer, more egg-y, more alive. Your Tuesday morning has purpose now. They don’t do just plain salt either, they have one of my personal favourites, Smoked Salt, gently smoked over oak, apple and cherry wood, to give this little pot of joy! It still feels like a treat to crack a fresh pot and have the first whiff.

If you are still a salt sceptic who thinks all salt is the same, then please do a very simple test: Slice a tomato, sprinkle one with table salt and one with Cornish Sea Salt and have a taste! It will blow your mind and make you question all your previous cooking experiences.

Yes, Cornish Sea Salt costs more than table salt. But here’s my counterargument: so does literally everything else that’s good. A nice bottle of wine costs more than a box of wine. Good coffee costs more than instant. (Yallah being one of my personal favourites FYI.) Quality ingredients elevate your cooking in ways that no amount of technique
can replicate.

Look, I’m not saying Cornish Sea Salt will solve all your problems. It won’t help you parallel park, it won’t make your in-laws less judgmental, and it definitely won’t clean your kitchen (I’ve tried). But it will make your food taste better. Noticeably, significantly better. It’s the easiest upgrade you can make to your cooking; no new skills required; no fancy equipment needed. Just swap out that tired old grinder for some proper Cornish Sea Salt, and watch as everything you make suddenly tastes like you’ve been holding out on everyone. Your scrambled eggs will thank you. Your roasted potatoes will thank you. Your guests will thank you.

So go ahead, make the switch. Your taste buds have been waiting for this moment, and honestly? They deserve it. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have a date with some salt-sprinkled dark chocolate. Life is good.

LAGOM CHEF
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