A Taste of The tide

Discovering West Cornwall; where adventure meets plate.

West Cornwall wears its edges with pride and is a place shaped by tides and tin. Whether you walk it, swim it, or taste your way through it, you’ll understand why chefs and adventure-seekers keep coming back to this wild corner of Cornwall. Start in Zennor, a moorland village wrapped in granite and myth. From here, take the coast path toward St Ives. It’s no gentle stroll – this is a four-hour scramble over rocks and heather, with the Atlantic roaring below and gannets slicing overhead. It’s raw, it’s wild and it feeds the soul. 

Head south to explore the ancient mines at Carn Galver, marvel at the cliff castle at Bosigran or dip into the crystal-clear waters at Nanjizal cove. Its mystical Song of the Sea Cave can be found at its southern end – time it right and you’ll have it all to yourself.

A little further west, Cape Cornwall near St Just offers a quieter counterpart to Land’s End. Climb to the top and breathe in the vastness; from here the sea looks endless and the cliffs feel like the edge of the world. 

Over on the Lizard Peninsula, the mood softens. The coast winds through serpentine cliffs and wildflower-covered paths. Walk from Kynance Cove to Lizard Point and you’ll pass turquoise waters and puffins in spring. Inland, Frenchman’s Creek on the Helford River offers one of the most peaceful kayaking experiences you’ll find – all dappled light, ancient oaks and kingfishers.

However, Cornwall isn’t just something you look at, it’s something you taste, and West Cornwall, in particular, is where land and sea meet on the plate with honesty and heart.

In the fishing port of Newlyn, the boats land mackerel, monkfish, turbot and brill straight from the Atlantic. At Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar, there are no frills, just punchy plates served fast and fresh. The crab nachos and hake tempura are a must.

Just along the quay, Argoe delivers fire-cooked seafood with depth and simplicity. Fish is grilled over charcoal, paired with ferments and wild herbs. It’s food with backbone. In St Ives, Porthminster Café rises above the beach, delivering Asian-inflected dishes like coconut fish curry or tamarind-glazed mackerel, all with an unbeatable sea view. Over on Porthmeor Beach, the café of the same name does casual better than most – coffee at sunrise, small plates at sunset, surfers in between.

The Gurnard’s Head, perched above the cliffs near Zennor, serves up rustic elegance. Roasts by the fire, fish straight from the quay and puddings that make you pause. It’s a place to warm your boots and reset your bearings. In Penzance, The Shore is quietly brilliant – a one-chef tasting menu that’s deeply seasonal and always thoughtful. Kombu-cured fish, foraged elderberries, wild mushroom broths – it’s restrained, grounded, and quietly thrilling. Down in Mousehole, The Old Coastguard is where you go to slow down. Set above the harbour with a garden that rolls into the sea, the food is bright and coastal – roast cod with samphire, fresh crab, or a Sunday lunch that fills more than your stomach.

Further east, the harbour town of Porthleven has become a food destination in its own right. It’s here I’ve put down roots – culinary and personal. At Kota, I bring together my heritage – Mãori foraging, Chinese-Malaysian spice, and Cornish produce – on every plate. It’s a cultural balancing act I’ve lived my whole life, and it shows in the food. Whether it’s small plates, or tasting menus, it’s always grounded in flavour, family and place.

Down the road, Kota Kai offers a more relaxed way in – bold small plates, sea views and a menu built for sharing. The scallops are a standout, seared perfectly and served with delicate Asian-inspired accompaniments that sing of the sea and spice. Bring the kids, bring the dog, bring an appetite. The crispy squid, Korean fried chicken, massaman chicken curry and Vietnamese spiced pork chop have become local favourites – and yes, the inspiration comes straight from the kitchen I grew up in. And don’t miss The Ship Inn, one of the best pubs in Cornwall – low beams, open fire and a seafood chowder that hits the spot after a stormy walk.

For a proper Cornish pasty, Ann’s Pasties and Gear Farm Pasties are a must-try; hand-made, full of local meat and vegetables and baked fresh daily. They’re a perfect companion for a coastal walk or a quick, satisfying lunch. And for a sweet treat, Roskilly’s ice-cream is a West Cornwall favourite, scooping rich, creamy flavours that make a perfect summer treat after a day on the beach or exploring the moors. And of course, don’t miss Moomaid of Zennor. Their sea salt and pepper flavour is dangerously good and can be found in shops and cafes across West Cornwall.

KOTA & Kota Kai
Harbour Head, Porthleven TR13 9JY
01326 562407/01326 727707
www.kotarestaurant.co.uk
www.kotakai.co.uk