By the Water’s Edge

Some hotels succeed because of their setting. Others earn their reputation through consistency, attention to detail and the quiet confidence that comes from knowing how to look after people. The Greenbank has long done all three. Now, drawing on that experience, the team is bringing new energy to The Falmouth – a historic hotel being carefully restored with the same thoughtful approach. Both are deeply connected to the sea, and to a tradition of hospitality that feels instinctive rather than forced.

Nestled on the harbour, The Greenbank is Falmouth’s oldest established hotel still in use as a hotel. It has grown gradually, adapting to changing times without losing sight of what brings people back. Guests arrive by car, on foot and in some cases, by boat. The hotel’s private pontoon, the only one in the South West to have one directly accessed from its own listed Quay, allows those exploring the South Coast by water to moor up and stay a while. It’s a fitting arrival, given the maritime history here. The Greenbank’s location directly overlooks the harbour and its small beach, both just steps from the door, with crabbing lines regularly lowered from the private quay. Children staying at the hotel receive a crabbing bucket as standard, and often spend hours hauling in their catch, then tipping it back with the same concentration.

Inside, the rooms make the most of the views. Harbour-facing bedrooms frame Falmouth’s working waterfront, from fishing boats to ferries, and the Water’s Edge restaurant looks directly over the water. The menu is straightforward but well-executed, with Cornish seafood given top billing – think scallops, mussels, crab, hake – prepared in a style that suits the setting rather than trying to outshine it.

For more relaxed dining their below decks pub, The Working Boat, offers proper pub food and local brews. There has been a pub on the site of The Working Boat for more than 300 years. Originally used as the inn’s tap room, it was frequented by workers and locals alike. As the inn became a hotel, the pub remained and became the base for oystermen to ‘refresh’ themselves after a long day out on the boat.

The Greenbank also has a claim to literary fame. In 1907, Kenneth Grahame stayed here while writing letters to his son that would later become The Wind in the Willows. The view from his room may have changed a little since then, but the character of the harbour remains the same.

Just around the headland, The Falmouth is the town’s oldest purpose built hotel, but with a different outlook and atmosphere. Built in 1865 to serve the growing demand for seaside holidays among Victorian travellers, it has been welcoming guests ever since. The setting is impressive, right on the seafront, overlooking Castle Beach, with open views across the bay. It’s a traditional hotel with large rooms, wide corridors, and the sort of scale that reflects its original purpose as a grand coastal getaway. Sea-view bedrooms take in the horizon, while the newly restored Castle View restaurant, bar and 1865 lounge along with the  hotel’s outdoor seating area make the most of the surroundings.

Castle Beach itself is ideal for families with rockpools, shallow swimming and easy access for paddleboards, snorkels or simply a towel on the sand. For those after something more involved, dive and scuba diving options are available directly from the beach.

Events on the lawn through the summer include family archery, BBQs and live music, with the added spectacle of watching the Red Arrows during Falmouth Week. It’s an informal affair with drinks from the bar and wood benches and picnic blankets on the lawn.

Together, The Greenbank and The Falmouth offer two ways to stay in the town, depending on what you want from your time here. The former is a coastal bolthole that is refined and relaxed, whereas the latter is family and activity oriented benefiting from its close proximity to the beach. Both are well-run hotels with history behind them and a clear understanding of where they are – on the water, in Cornwall and still doing what they’ve done best.

THE FALMOUTH
01326 312671
www.falmouthhotel.co.uk

THE GREENBANK
01326 312440
www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk