Coastal Rambles on The Lizard

Embark on a journey along the South West Coast Path, following Cornwall’s southernmost trails.

The Lizard Peninsula is a land apart, an ancient salient where Cornwall pushes southward toward a final flourish, stretching out into the Atlantic swell. The air is salted with the scent of heather and brine, and the paths are ancient, worn smooth by centuries of footfall – fishermen, crusty jugglers and now those who simply seek the quiet companionship of sea and sky. These trails are not to be hurried. They demand sturdy boots, an unexpeditious pace, and an appreciation for the way the light shifts across the headlands, gilding the gorse and sending long shadows into the coves below.

From the echoes of shipwrecks to the calls of peregrine falcons, from the rasp of the wind through cliff-top grasses to the comfort of a beachside café, these walks offer a passage through time and tide. Here are six routes along the South West Coast Path that capture the essence of the Lizard, leading you from the crashing waves at Gunwalloe to the wooded hush of Gillan Creek.

Church Cove to Poldhu

Gunwalloe is a place where land and legend meet. The Church of St. Winwaloe crouched behind a rocky outcrop, seems to brace itself against the winds, its bell tower set apart as if in defiance of the gales that sweep in from the Atlantic. It’s a fitting place to begin a journey, where echoes of smugglers’ lanterns and Winston Graham’s Poldark linger in the salty air. 

The path winds above the beach, circumnavigating the golf course, and as you crest the summit, the cove comes into view, showcasing a beach that is impossibly inviting. The Poldhu Beach Café sits just above the shore, making it an ideal spot to pause. Their hot chocolates are nearly legendary – thick, rich, topped with cream, and best enjoyed whilst sitting on one of the outdoor benches. If the tide is low, a stroll along the water’s edge offers the perfect conclusion to the first stage of the journey.

Poldhu to Mullion Cove

Climbing out of Poldhu, the trail lifts you towards a different perspective – wider skies, broader horizons. In spring, the cliffs are thick with thrift, their pink heads bobbing in the breeze. To the west, the sea is never still, shifting from indigo to jade with the passing clouds. Mullion Cove reveals itself gradually, its stout harbour walls standing firm against centuries of storms. In the past, pilchard boats would have bustled here, their hauls destined for markets far beyond Cornwall.

Today, it is a quieter place, but one that retains its air of purpose. The Mullion Cove Hotel sits above it all, offering respite with views that stretch to the horizon. A pot of tea and a slice of saffron cake here are hard to resist, and for those travelling with a canine companion, the welcome is warm. The temptation to linger is strong, but the path ahead is calling.

Kynance to Lizard Point

If any stretch of the South West Coast Path could claim to be iconic, it is this. Kynance Cove is the stuff of postcards and guidebook covers, a place where serpentine rocks twist into fantastic formations and where the water turns a near-unbelievable shade of turquoise. But to truly appreciate its magic, it is best seen in the quieter hours – early morning, before the crowds arrive, or late in the afternoon when the cliffs glow gold in the setting sun.

The Kynance Cove Café, a fixture since 1929, is the perfect place to fortify oneself before the walk south. From here, the path rises and falls, revealing new perspectives with each twist. At the Lizard Lighthouse, Britain’s most southerly point, the land runs out altogether. This is a place of thresholds, where seabirds wheel and seals bob in the waters below. The Polpeor Café clings to the edge, serving pasties and crab sandwiches with views that stretch into forever. It is a place to sit, to breathe and to watch the world drift by on the tide.

Cadgwith to Kennack Sands

Cadgwith is a village out of time. Thatched cottages huddle around a working fishing cove, and the rhythm of the tides still dictate the days. Setting off from here feels like stepping into a painting, the narrow lanes leading upwards until the village is left behind, replaced by the wild openness of the cliffs. The path skirts hidden coves and plunges into shadowed gullies where ferns grow thick.

Kennack Sands appears suddenly, a sweep of golden sand framed by green hills. It is a place for barefoot wandering, for watching the waves roll in uninterrupted from the Atlantic. The Mora Café, tucked just behind the dunes, is a welcome sight. Seasonal dishes are their forte – fresh fish, local produce, and homemade cakes that taste best after a
long walk.

Kennack Sands to Coverack

This is a walk of contrasts, from open heathland to wooded valleys, from the high drama of cliffs to the gentle curve of Coverack’s harbour. The land undulates gently, the path crossing streams and dipping into hollows where wild garlic scents the air.

As Coverack comes into view, its crescent of cottages seems to rise from the sea itself. Here, the Coverack Bay Hotel offers the perfect place to pause. The Bay Hotel’s Hevva Restaurant offers spectacular views across Coverack Bay and a menu celebrating locally sourced seafood, including lobster and Cornish king crab will entice you to linger. Here visitors can enjoy a warm Cornish welcome, fine dining in the comfortable restaurant, or drinks on the terrace overlooking the historic harbour.

Porthallow to Gillan

Porthallow is a place of quiet industry, a former pilchard-fishing village where the past still lingers in the shape of old net lofts and weathered stone. From here, the path follows the contours of the land, offering glimpses of the Helford River’s mouth, where the water merges with the sea in a shifting dance of light and tide.

The Ferryboat Inn, perched along the route, is a place where time slows. A pint of local ale, a dish of fresh seafood, and the sound of water lapping at the quay – it’s a reminder that walking is not always about the distance covered but about the moments gathered along the way.

Gillan appears as a whisper of a place, a hidden cove where boats rest on their moorings and the trees lean towards the shore. It is a fitting end, a place that feels secret, a reward for those who have taken the time to walk, to notice and to let the land work its quiet magic upon them.

To walk these paths is to follow in the footsteps of those who have long known the rhythm of this land – the fishermen, the farmers, the poets. It is to feel the wind and taste the salt, to let the sea set the tempo and the land provide the story. So, lace up your boots, shoulder your day sack, and set forth. The Lizard is waiting.