Escaping the ordinary

As the evenings close in and the crowds of summer are drawn away, now is the time to explore a secret side of Cornwall; a winter wildness brimming with old magic.

While the warm and balmy days of summer may be well and truly behind us now as we head towards the end of 2022, Cornwall is still very much alive with activity. Although those brought to our summery shores for the dazzling beaches and sunshine filled days spent by the sea have made their way home, fresh visitors who know of the Cornish magic that hangs in the air over the winter period find their way here once more to join in on all that Cornwall has to offer, coming together with those of us lucky enough to live here all year round in celebration of
the season. 

With autumn and winter visits to Cornwall becoming more popular than ever, it’s never been more important to look ahead and get planning for the cosiest home from home from which to explore the Duchy. And while there is no shortage of luxury hotels and quiet holiday cottage retreats, planning ahead is a sure-fire way to make your escape at this time of year one of comfort and convenience, in a place that welcomes you to put up your feet and get cosy after a day of wild and wintry exploration.

So, what can you expect to find here in Cornwall as we look to welcome the season’s first frost? For us, the most charming thing about this time of year is the colourful transformation our landscape undergoes as the seasons shift. Wouldn’t it be amazing to see a timelapse of the landscape from a bird’s eye view? For now, we have to experience it from the ground, but that’s fine – with endless miles of bracing coastal walks, and sheltered trails winding their way through the woodlands of Cornwall’s countryside, experiencing Cornwall at this time of year is hardly a chore! Especially with the crowds of summer having dispersed, there is a very real chance that, during your expeditions, those days spent exploring hidden coves and soaking up the winter sunsets could very well see you having entire stretches of this beautiful county to yourself.

For those seeking an exhilarating way in which to immerse themselves in Cornwall’s coastal lifestyle, what better way than a cold-water swim? A truly cathartic experience, leaving you with nothing else to think about than the cool embrace of the ocean, the mental and physical benefits of cold-water immersion have never been more evident, with countless groups gathering regularly around Cornwall to celebrate their shared love for the water. It’s a way to meet new people, and for those on holiday seeking to escape the stresses of daily life, it’s sure to help you put those worries firmly to the back of your mind. If this sounds like your idea of a holiday, turn to page 21 and discover how the team at Escape Swims can help. Of course, during the autumn and winter, the ocean isn’t always as welcoming as the casual swimmer would like, but that’s okay – a bit of storm-watching can be just as therapeutic, the dramatic surging of the waves as they batter the extremities of the coast putting the power of mother nature firmly into perspective.

With the quieter beaches and coast paths, and the water yet to fully cool down, you can quickly fill your days on holiday by exploring the great outdoors. But, while beach days and long bracing walks are very much a firm fixture on any autumn/winter break, the Cornish weather, even in the height of summer, can be unpredictable. Good job, then, that the county is home to a wealth of all-weather attractions. When the rain clouds threaten, why not whisk yourselves away on a Mediterranean or tropical adventure at Eden? With a packed autumn/winter calendar of events, exhibitions and, of course, a flourishing, year-round display of plants, Cornwall’s Eden Project provides the perfect respite from the weather beyond the biomes. If you’re staying further south, then Helston’s Museum of Cornish Life provides a superb insight into the everyday items that once shaped the lives of ordinary people in years and centuries past. Alternatively, if you’re hoping to enjoy a trip to the stunning sands of Porthcurno but suddenly find that the weather has other ideas, then don’t write off the trip entirely. Porthcurno’s Museum of Global Communications is well worth a visit; once the point at which many submarine telegraph cables came ashore, the museum offers the chance to explore the amazing story of our connected world, and how a tranquil valley in Cornwall became host to the past, present and future of global communications. 

For those who appreciate the arts, Royal Cornwall Museum (page 12) currently has some fascinating exhibitions on display. Promoting excellence in science and art, with the aim of forwarding the world-leading industries that Cornwall is known for, this is a real hub of culture, one where those who love this county will find themselves in good company. So, too, is the Jackson Foundation in St Just (page 15), where a regularly changing series of exhibitions celebrate the works of Kurt Jackson, himself deeply inspired by the landscape, and other artists whose works also resonate deeply with the Cornish identity. 

Other must-visit attractions – to name just a few – include the Minack Theatre (also in Porthcurno), the Lost Gardens of Heligan and Trebah Garden, both of which take on a new colour palette for the autumn/winter months, and the county’s wealth of National Trust owned sites. These include Cotehele – a definite ‘must’ in the build-up to Christmas with its renowned annual display.

After all those activities, explorations and adventures, you will almost certainly have worked up an appetite. So, what about the food at this time of year? The first thing to say, is that Cornish cuisine is all about seasonality. In fact, whether you’re hoping to source your self-catering treats from weekly markets such as Truro Farmers Market, or from farm outlets like Boscastle Farm Shop (Boscastlefarmshop.co.uk) or Trevaskis Farm (trevaskisfarm.co.uk), you will find yourself very well served, wherever you stay in Cornwall. For those of you hoping to hang up the apron for the week, who could blame you? Thankfully, the region is also home to a wealth of award-winning restaurants, including those owned by Rick Stein, Nathan Outlaw, Paul Ainsworth and Jude Kereama (page 68), and it’s fair to say that the transition of summer into autumn is perhaps nowhere more evident than on the plate! At this time of year, summer salads make way for winter warmers, while popular ‘fruits de mer’ including mussels and oysters are at their very best, offering a true taste of coastal Cornwall.

From storm watching and star gazing, to perusing the items and works on display at Cornwall’s myriad attractions, galleries and museums, there’s plenty here in Cornwall that continues to draw visitors to enjoy the county. Put another way, there is much more to this destination than the presence of nature alone, and much to celebrate as the evenings close in. Fortunately, the accommodation on offer here is equally varied. All-inclusive hotel stays offer guests the all-in-one package covering spas and wellbeing, food, and of course, luxurious accommodation, while self-catered staycations – which have never been more popular – open visitors up to a world of holiday HQs that are as varied as the landscapes they occupy. From cosy granite cottages deep in the countryside, to large, ultramodern homes nestled on the fringe of the coast, whatever your idea of holiday home luxury, and however many of you are planning to stay, there’s never been more for you to choose from. 

The key message from all of this is that whether you prefer the calmer side of life away from bustling summer crowds, or are simply looking to delve a little deeper into old Cornish ways in a time of festive celebration (bearing in mind that Christmas is just around the corner!), the colder months are a wonderful time in which to visit Cornwall. The seasonal shift is sure to show you a whole new side to this beautiful county, so why not book your next stay to enjoy a true glimpse of local life?