Flavour and season combine in Porthleven

Autumn brings its own character to the dishes you’ll experience over the coming months.

Autumn in Cornwall is always a season I eagerly look forward to. After the rush of summer, when the towns and villages are filled with visitors and the kitchens at Kota and Kota Kai are buzzing from morning to night, this is a moment to pause. Cooler air changes the mood, while the ingredients available to chefs begin to shift, offering a richness that encourages hearty meals and menus with deeper flavours.

For us, the emphasis in autumn is always on what Cornwall provides at this point in the year. Local fishing crews continue to cast their nets and their efforts bring some of the finest catches to the kitchens. The harvest on land also plays its part, with vegetables and fruit that match the weightier flavours of the season. There’s something magical about pairing those pristine flavours.

One of the great joys of autumn here is foraging. Berries cling to the hedgerows, their flavour sharpened by the cool nights, while mushrooms appear through moss in shaded corners of woodland. Foraging has always been part of Kota food culture, and it’s something I love to incorporate into our cooking. These ingredients carry the taste of the season and bring a distinctive twist to dishes that might otherwise feel familiar.

Of course, autumn isn’t just about the main plates. Desserts move into focus, too. Apples, pears and plums reach their peak, perfectly suited to roasting, poaching or preserving.
At Kota, the fruit is treated in ways that highlight its own character, producing puddings that are both rooted in tradition and fresh in execution.

Cooking in Cornwall during autumn is about more than the food. Meals tend to be generous, designed for tables where people can spend time together. A glass of Cornish wine or beer completes the experience, as does the warmth of a fire.

The landscape outside plays its part. Along the coast, conditions change quickly. Waves break hard against the rocks, giving the air a briny edge, whilst dramatic skies darken as the evenings draw in. Looking across Mount’s Bay from Porthleven makes it clear how tied the cooking is to this setting. The fishermen, the farmers and the foragers all contribute, encouraging the attentive chef to respect that work in the dishes served.

When I think about autumn cooking in Cornwall, I think about depth, warmth and connection. It’s the season where you can roast, braise and slow-cook again, building in layers of flavour. It’s also the season where you’re reminded of how lucky we are to live in such a beautiful corner of the world.

This autumn, Kota is running a series of nostalgia dishes to celebrate our 20th year of running. We are looking forward to reinventing old dishes like The Rockpool, Duo of Duck 2025, Hedgerow Baked Cheese, and other dishes from Great British Menu over the years. It is really going to be a blast from the past, but taken into 2025. We also continue with our winemaker’s evenings for a night of celebrating wine and food matching.  The next wine tasting will be at the end of October with Sea Change, who are driven by sustainability. It is also the return of the once-a-month special Sunday roast feast at Kota.

It is always a real celebration of five courses of seasonal food with a roast dinner. Time to get cosy! 

Autumn at Kota Kai means that the Kai lunch offers are back.  Kai is a wonderful space to spend time when the weather gets cooler, with views over the harbour and the fire being lit. Sunday roasts are also back with a lot of those lovely autumn veg making their way onto the plate, along with the best roast meats from Phillip Warren’s Butchers. There is always something for everybody on the Sunday offerings. Asian nights also kick off in October, starting with celebrating National Curry Week, where every customer gets to try five different curries on the night. Book early, as these nights are super busy. 

Autumn is when Cornwall dramatically rolls into a time of generosity and warmth. And in the kitchen, that’s exactly what I try to put on the plate.

KOTA & Kota Kai
Harbour Head, Porthleven TR13 9JY
01326 562407 / 01326 727707
www.kotarestaurant.co.uk
www.kotakai.co.uk