Keeping the spirit alive

Discovering Canteen, where seasonal food cooked over fire brings people together.

Words by Martyn Odell

If you missed last month’s instalment then you probably missed my glorious introduction, in short, my name’s Martyn, I’m a chef, content creator, but more importantly, a food waste disruptor! I have spent any free time from my chaotic life exploring Cornwall, planning and scheming our future move down here. 

Immersing myself in the Cornish food scene I have met some of the most amazing, creative and welcoming people I know. The food scene in London can feel very isolating and cut-throat but in Cornwall, it feels like people are more willing to collaborate and create experiences and environments that will stand the good old test of time. This column isn’t about me, but more about shining a light on some of the people, places and producers I have connected with whilst being down in the Duchy.

This issue, I wanted to introduce you to – or if you already know it, remind you of – a wonderful place called Canteen (www.canteencornwall.com). A humble old car repair shop turned eatery in Mount Hawke run by Ben Quinn and his glorious team who he will be passing the baton over to in the not-so-distant future, but more on that later. Ben says: “Canteen has always been more than a place to eat. It’s been a canteen in the truest sense of the word: long tables, shared food and a community spirit and has become a much-loved fixture in Cornwall’s food scene.”

Open year-round, Canteen has been feeding locals and visitors through the peak summer months and acting as a pillar of the community through the winter months. Alongside its daily heartbeat, the team has also built a world-class reputation with Woodfired Canteen long-table feasts and Woodfired Weddings – events that put Cornish food, fire and creativity on a global stage.

Having performed at a fair few festivals together I somehow managed to miss any contact with Ben and his amazing team, so the family and I took a slight detour en route to Porthleven and stopped in for a bite. You’re welcomed into a big, bright space with a wicked menu made entirely from local produce, all wrapped up in a modern and inviting atmosphere. The menu is simple – three options, a veg, a meaty and a special  –  which is always being rotated to use what they have and allowing the chefs to be creative.

Having worked in hospitality all my life, you can quickly cut through the noise and sense if a place feels showy and fake or whether the culture of the business shines through and Canteen feels like you have walked into your mate’s house for some exceptional food and drinks. Spending some time with Ben he explained how the next chapter is underway as he passes the Canteen spoons to three of the team’s brightest sparks: Paul, Chloe and Amy with each bringing their own flair. It’s not easy to build a team or culture that will stand the test of time in an industry that is fast and furious, but Ben has managed to steadily build an establishment that will keep on being a pillar of the community even once he’s gone. 

As Ben moves on, he knows that Canteen will be well looked after: “Paul with his steady hand and big-picture vision, Chloe with firecracker energy and creative drive and Amy with her knack for making every detail sing. Together, they’re keeping Canteen’s heartbeat strong while adding their own notes to the mix.”

“Canteen has always been about people first,” adds Ben. “The food brings us together, but it’s the culture, the laughter and the graft of the team that make it what it is. Handing it to Paul, Chloe and Amy feels like the most natural next step.”

As for Ben, he hasn’t gone far. His new life as a coach and consultant is already thriving, as he helps businesses and people find their own clarity, creativity and culture, the very ingredients that made Canteen what it is. And Cornwall hasn’t seen the last of him in the kitchen either. Whether it’s cooking at demos, championing local food talent, or firing up the oven for special events, he’s still very much part of the county’s hospitality fabric.

“Ben has built something really special,” adds Chloe. “Now it’s our turn to keep the spirit alive, bring our own ideas and keep feeding Cornwall in the way only Canteen can.”

Canteen has always been about more than food. It’s about people sitting down together, sharing stories and leaving better than they arrived. With Paul, Chloe and Amy at the helm and Ben cheering them on the story is only just beginning. So, if you fancy popping in for some food and a coffee in a warm inviting space, picking up some amazing produce or even booking a private event, head to Canteen.

LAGOM CHEF
LagomChef
The Lagom Chef
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