Seasonal comforts

Cosy flavours against a backdrop of crashing waves – Cornwall’s autumn culinary warmth awaits.

Autumn is a lovely time in Cornwall. We tend to be lucky with the milder weather here than the rest of the country, but as the days cool down and nights draw in, we all like to indulge in hearty meals to warm our bodies and souls. I, for one, certainly crave stews, soups, roasts and braised dishes. I think about oxtail soup, seafood chowders, lentils, curries, root vegetables, roast dinners, pies, root vegetables, hot crusty bread loaves, crumbles, steamed puddings, all dishes that feel so comforting. 

The change in season also signals the start of stormy weather, when people flock to Porthleven, which is famous for its fierce storms. We all enjoy watching the huge waves crash against the cliffs and feeling the spray of the sea hitting our faces as we walk and marvel at the sea’s power. It is also a time to reflect on the busy summer just gone and to take a moment to recover – an opportunity to plan the winter menus and make preparations for the upcoming festive season.

At Kai, we will be kicking off the first of our Christmas parties at the end of the month. We will also launch our ‘around the world’ cuisine nights, happening every Thursday evening, where we select a country or region to showcase with a special menu. We like to create a few signature cocktails or other drinks to complement the dishes and add a touch of authenticity. These evenings are always enjoyable and very popular. I recommend booking in advance.

At Kota, we have a new style of menu with the continuation of our nostalgia dishes, where we will be celebrating food from over the last 20 years of being open. It has been so much fun to look at some of the older offerings and develop them with a new and modern take. Look out for game dishes this season from small local shoots that are super lean and a delicious nod to Autumnal weather. We also have a wine-matching evening with South African winemaker Boschendal Wine on the 28th of November. These nights are very popular, where we match six wines with six dishes. Be quick to book as tickets sell out. Kota is also a fabulous place to book a Christmas party for up to 40 people. 

I thought I would leave you with a favourite dish of mine that is super tasty and exactly what you need for a comforting meal at home.

Massaman Lamb Shank Curry

The history of Thailand’s Massaman curry stems from a wonderful mix of cultures. The dish is popular in the south of the country towards its border with Malaysia. It’s said to have been first brought over from Persia and then adapted using local flavours and ingredients from the region. In comparison to other Thai curries, it’s very mild. The mix of nutmeg, coriander, cumin and cinnamon is wonderfully fragrant, and it goes really well with the lamb. 

Traditionally, the dish is served with jasmine rice, but as an alternative, I also like to serve it with some creamy mashed potatoes, as you would with a traditional braised lamb shank.

Serves 4 – COOK TIME: 3-3¾ hours 

INGREDIENTS
4 lamb shanks
200g waxy baby potatoes
800ml coconut milk
500ml chicken stock
3 tbsp palm sugar

For the curry paste:
8 cloves garlic, chopped
3 banana shallots, peeled and roughly chopped
3 long red chillies, chopped
2 stalks lemongrass, chopped
1 small thumb of ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
1½ tsp shrimp paste
3 tbsp Thai fish sauce
4 cardamom pods crushed
¼ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground nutmeg
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp ground cumin
5 tbsp groundnut oil 

Extra 5 tbsp groundnut oil for
frying off 

To garnish:
40g coriander leaves
2 red chillies, chopped
200g peanuts
50g crispy onions, shop-bought

METHOD

Heat the oven to 180°C and roast the peanuts on a tray for about eight minutes until they’re golden brown. Put them to the side and reduce the oven to 150°C.

Set a pan on a medium heat and brown the lamb shanks all over. Season with salt and put aside.

Put all the ingredients for the Massaman paste in a blender and blitz to form a paste.

Heat the groundnut oil in a casserole dish on a medium heat and add the paste. Fry for around eight minutes, until all the flavours and aromas are released from the paste.

Add the lamb shanks, potatoes, coconut milk, chicken stock and palm sugar to the casserole dish and bring to a simmer. With the lid on, cook in the oven for three to three and a half hours until the meat is tender and falling off the bones.

Season and garnish with the coriander, peanuts and crispy onions. Serve with your choice of rice.

KOTA & Kota Kai
Harbour Head, Porthleven TR13 9JY
Kota: 01326 562407
Kota Kai: 01326 727707
www.kotarestaurant.co.uk
www.kotakai.co.uk