The Hidden Hut

Words by Martyn Odell AKA Lagom Chef

Actually, it’s not so hidden anymore.

The Hidden Hut may be hidden from view, but its reputation? That ship has well and truly sailed. I’ve visited a handful of times and every single time I post a photo, my inbox explodes like I’ve just announced free pasties for life. “OMG, isn’t it AMAZING?!” Yes, Sharon, yes, it is.

Getting there involves a short downhill stumble from the car park to Porthcurnick Beach – about five minutes of British politeness as you navigate the narrow walkway, giving way to other visitors. That is, until the hypnotic scent of wood-fired food kicks in and all social niceties evaporate. Suddenly, it’s every man for himself.

Founded by Simon Stallard and Jemma Glass, the day-to-day magic is orchestrated by Dan Wilson (head chef), Lee Trevena (sous chef), and Tors Trevena (manager). During peak summer season, this mighty team serves over 1,000 people a day – smashing out incredible dahls, fish stews, pork buns, and those legendary mackerel BLTs. You’ve probably seen their Instagram-famous Feast nights: a massive table on the beach, fire-cooked food, golden hour lighting. It’s basically a Viking banquet without the pillaging.

But what happens when the summer tourists head for home?

A lot of out of county visitors see Cornwall as strictly a summer destination, but there is so much more to Cornwall than boogie boarding in ill-fitting wetsuits, arcade machines and ice creams inevitably stolen by overzealous seagulls. The Hut stays open for the truly brave souls through to November (weekends only after half term for lunches, coffees and cakes), offering a cosy menu of roast meat rolls, beef rib with horseradish and watercress, proper dripping gravy on the side, rotating through pork, chicken and lamb. Plus autumnal soups and fish stews with freshly baked potato bread rolls and salty butter. Honestly, what more do you need after a stormy beach walk? This!

Winter in Cornwall is a different beast entirely. When the tourists vanish, the local communities hunker down for the harsh months ahead. Which led me to ask Dan the obvious question: “What do you do in winter? You can’t just hibernate in the hut?” “No, Martyn,” he said. “We turn to flame.”

Enter: flame

Come proper winter, the team pivots to “Flame”, their wood-fired takeaway operation run from the outside kitchen at their pub, The Standard Inn. Starting every Friday from October 24th through March, locals pre-order their food, get a collection time, then swing by to grab it. Rock up early? Grab a pint and get cosy in the pub’s courtyard-turned-winter-snug while you wait.

The menu is gloriously simple: one main dish, a few sides. Think chicken shawarmas, double smash burgers, racks of ribs with chipotle BBQ and slaw. As Dan puts it: “It’s dirty food for the locals. They love it, and so do we.”

But wait, there’s more…

This is what I really love about Cornwall: the commitment to being pillars of the community. The Hidden Hut crew aren’t content with just summer feasts and winter takeaways. This year, they’re trialling “The Hidden Hut Supper Series.” The pub shuts on Tuesdays for these ticketed events, where you’ll sit down to big sharing plates of winter warmers: shepherd’s pie, cassoulets, lasagnes, all cooked in wood-fired ovens. Loads of wine, cheese and the occasional quiz thrown in for good measure.

It’s their first year testing it out, so get in quick before the secret’s out (again). I might well see you at the table, I’ll be the one polishing off the cheeseboard!

No plans for Christmas?

If you need a change of scenery over the festive period, chuck on some boots and get down to the Hidden Hut as they open the hatches from Boxing Day all the way through to January 5th. Plan not be the designated driver and bring a bottle of wine down to enjoy with some delicious food!

The Hut is a special place in the Cornish food scene, run by a cracking team who will feed you some of the best wood-fired food, whether it’s from the hut, The Standard Inn or from one of their big feasting tables. You will not be disappointed, so get down there no matter the weather.

LAGOM CHEF
LagomChef
The Lagom Chef
lagomchef
www.lagomchef.com