Cornwall LivingIssue #62
More than a square meal
Celebrating five fantastic years, we visit The Square at Porthleven where you’ll find harbourside dining at its best.
For husband and wife team, Anna and Stew Eddy, it’s been five wonderful years since they took over The Square at Porthleven. With Anna heading up front of house and Stew working his magic in the kitchen you couldn’t wish for a better team. Stew is a Cornish boy, but started his illustrious career as a chef in kitchens north of the Tamar. Earning a Michelin star at Hunstrete House, Stew was also at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir, where coincidentally Anna also worked, and he studied under Michael Caines. It’s these fine dining influences that bring elegance and exquisite taste to the modern British cuisine that is served at The Square.
“Dishes are refreshingly uncomplicated but packed with flavour…”
Prior to owning The Square, Anna and Stew were at the award-winning Victoria Inn in Perranuthnoe. “We had a wonderful time running The Vic,” explains Anna, “but with two small children I look back now and wonder how we did it.” Running the bar, restaurant and letting rooms at The Vic was a 24/7 job for the couple and there came a point when it was time for a change of pace. “We now have a wonderful Head Chef, Bryok Williams, who runs the kitchen and Holly Bowden, who runs front of house, which allows myself and Stew the luxury of doing less hours, giving us more time to spend with our family – although the office work still has to be done in between school pick-us!” laughs Anna. Not ones to rest on their laurels though, Anna and Stew have also added an ice cream parlour and deli to The Square. The delicious ice cream is made on the premises, using seasonal local ingredients. In fact, as we are talking to Anna, Stew heads out to pick fresh elderflowers to flavour the next batch. They also sell their own pickles and condiments in the deli. So, if you eat in the restaurant and have particularly enjoyed the apple and raisin chutney that accompanies the Cornish duck liver pate you can pop next door and pick up
a jar or two.
The menu changes daily depending on what’s in season and you’ll be faced with the difficult choice between delicious dishes such as Goan style fish, tiger prawn and sweet potato curry or Newlyn turbot fillet with early Cornish potatoes. Dishes are refreshingly uncomplicated but packed with flavour and on a sunny day you can’t beat lunch on the terrace accompanied by a glass of something cold. Booking is advisable, as we’re not the only ones who love The Square at Porthleven!
"Dishes are refreshingly uncomplicated but packed with flavour..."